Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Les Champans 2023 SPS21 Roberto Henriquez is one of

Roberto Henriquez is one of the leading voices in Chile's heritage-grape revival — a young natural winemaker working out of the Bio-Bio and Itata Valleys to rescue old-vine parcels of Pais

The wine sees fermentation and aging entirely in concrete — no oak — which keeps the fruit pure and the texture supple

The 2024 drinks well now and over the next year or two

but Dominique's reds are no afterthought — and Monthelie's Les Duresses is one of the best-kept secrets in the lineup

Domaine des Comtes Lafon Volnay 1er Cru Les Champans 2023 SPS21 Roberto Henriquez is one ofAnother of Lafon's top Volnay 1er Crus, and a wonderful counterpoint to Santenots. Where Santenots leans structured and savory from its hard, iron rich limestone soils, Champans sits on deeper, crumblier limestone clay soils and delivers a more aromatic, floral style classic Volnay perfume. Dominique Lafon may be the most celebrated white winemaker of his generation, but his reds are no afterthought; he has Burgundy in his blood, and the family's